A review of skin ageing and its medical therapy

BA Gilchrest - British journal of dermatology, 1996 - academic.oup.com
BA Gilchrest
British journal of dermatology, 1996academic.oup.com
Intrinsic (chronological) skin ageing is characterized hy atrophy of the skin with loss of
elasticity and slowed metabolic activity. The superposition of environmental damage,
particularly exposure to ultraviolet radiation (photodamage). on the intrinsic ageinj; process
results, at least initially, in a hypcrtrophic repair response, with a thickened epidermis and
increased melanogenesis. Even more striking changes occur in the dcrmis: massive
elastosis (deposition of abnormal elastic libres). collagen degenerafion. and twisted, dilated …
Summary
Intrinsic (chronological) skin ageing is characterized hy atrophy of the skin with loss of elasticity and slowed metabolic activity. The superposition of environmental damage, particularly exposure to ultraviolet radiation (photodamage). on the intrinsic ageinj; process results, at least initially, in a hypcrtrophic repair response, with a thickened epidermis and increased melanogenesis. Even more striking changes occur in the dcrmis: massive elastosis (deposition of abnormal elastic libres). collagen degenerafion. and twisted, dilated microvasculature. ReguUir use of a sunscreen alone appears to allow some repair as well as protection from further photodamage. Topical tretinoin has been shown fo partially reverse the clinical and histological changes induced by the combination of sunlight exposure and chronological ageing. A formulation of tretinoin in an emollient cream (Retinova™ Renova®). developed speciiically for the treatment of photodamaged skin, has heen extensively investigated in multifenlre. double‐blind trials and has been shown to produce significant improvement within 4–6 months of daily use, compared witb vehicle alone, as part of a regimen including sun protection and moisturizer use. Histological changes in the epidermis and dermis noted after 12 months suggest tretinoin repairs photodamage by reconstitution of the rete pegs, repair of kcratinocyte ultrastructural damage, more even distribution of melanocytcs and melanin pigment, deposition of new papillary dermal collagen, and Improvements in vasculature. Alpha‐hydroxy acids (AHAs) have also been widely used for therapy of photodamaged skin, and these compotinds have been reported lo normalize hyperkeratlnization and increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content. The single randomized controlled study now available appears to substantiate AHA efficacy and safety. In summary, recent work has substantially elucidated the ageing processes that alTect the skin and has demonstrated that many of tbe unwanted changes can be improved by topical therapy.
Oxford University Press